Manuel Mendoza: “Manuel is the restaurant of my dreams”

By Pamela Villagra

From business administration to internationally recognized chef, Manuel Mendoza has carved out a name for himself in the culinary world. As the owner of Cocina 33 (located in Monteria and Medellín) and Manuel Restaurante, he shares his journey as a chef, the lessons he has learned, and how Barranquilla is emerging as a top destination for gastronomic tourism.
I first met Manuel “Mane” Mendoza in 2016 at a gathering of chefs in Bogotá, hosted by Juan Manuel Barrientos at El Cielo. At the time, many chefs from different regions were coming together to highlight local talent and position Colombian gastronomy as an ambassador of the country’s rich culinary heritage.
Manuel was already a well-known name in the industry. His restaurant, Cocina 33, was a culinary landmark in Barranquilla, and his reputation was growing. When I visited Cocina 33 again in 2019, I saw firsthand the commitment of a self-taught chef who had increasingly turned his focus to local ingredients. Even then, he dreamed of a new space—one that would combine an immersive dining experience, impeccable service, and a strong local identity to put Barranquilla on the map of Colombian gastronomy.

From Cocina 33 to Today: How have you evolved as a chef?

“I’ve grown tremendously. When I opened Cocina 33, my first restaurant, I was entirely self-taught. Cooking had always been my passion, but I studied business administration to fulfill my father’s wishes. From a young age, I learned to cook with my mother and grandmothers, and on weekends, I’d prepare meals for family and friends. Cocina 33 marked the beginning of an ongoing learning process—I’ve learned from great chefs, mentors, friends, and my own kitchen team. We have an incredible team that works together every day to offer the best dining experience. Travel has always been an inspiration, but these days, I find myself looking more and more to my roots.”

What were the key lessons that led to the creation of Manuel?

“Without a doubt, studying business administration has been invaluable. It gave me a solid foundation to see my restaurants not just as culinary projects, but as businesses. I understand about management, human resources, and I’m obsessed with delivering top-tier service.
The pandemic was a turning point for me. It pushed me to make big decisions—like relocating Cocina 33 to Montería and focusing on opening Manuel in Barranquilla. My partners believed in me from the start and supported this ambitious project, even in the middle of a crisis. Surrounding myself with a strong team has been crucial—not just in the kitchen and front of house, but also in administration and finance.”

Would you say your cuisine has become more complex and more local?

“Absolutely. My cooking evolves every day. We’re constantly incorporating global techniques, but we’re also taking greater inspiration from what’s around us. We’ve developed a deeper appreciation for our local ingredients—not just from the Atlántico, but also from Montes de María, Ciénaga de Oro in Córdoba, and even Huila.
For the first time, we launched a tasting menu, something I had dreamed of for years. It includes dishes like tuna with an aromatic broth, blending local and international techniques. We also highlight traditions, like our Pastel de Asado de Tira, which pays tribute to the famous Pastel de Pital de Megua. More and more, I find myself inspired by my mother, Irasema Bula, who has always been my role model.”

Barranquilla, your pantry: what are its star ingredients?

“Barranquilla’s culinary richness comes from its freshness and diversity—a reflection of a city shaped by African, Indigenous, European, and Middle Eastern influences. Some of my must-have ingredients include ají topito (chili), cashew, and millo (type of corn). Fresh fish and seafood are essential, as is coconut, which brings depth to rice and soups. Cassava and plantains are the backbone of patacones and carimañolas, while chili provides the bold, spicy notes I love. Tropical fruits like mango and loquat, corn in arepas and bollos, costeño cheese, and coriander, which adds a touch of freshness. This incredible mix of cultures makes our cuisine even richer and full of bold flavors.”

Was Manuel a project you had in the heart and soul?

“It is the restaurant of my dreams. I wanted to give Barranquilla a fine dining experience. We focus not only on offering an exceptional gastronomic proposal but also on delivering top-tier service. Every visit to Manuel is designed to be a complete experience.”

Is Barranquilla a must-visit culinary destination?

“Without a doubt. More and more, we see travelers who initially planned to visit Santa Marta or Cartagena but are now making a stop in Barranquilla just to eat. The city has become a key destination for anyone exploring the Colombian Caribbean.
We also see business travelers and tourists choosing Barranquilla as their primary destination and being pleasantly surprised by its growing gastronomic scene. The fusion of cultures—Middle Eastern, Indigenous, African, and European—gives our cuisine a unique identity that sets it apart.”

What is the most beautiful gift that cooking has given you?

“Happiness. Since the day I decided to become a chef, I’ve been happy. And it has been absolutely worth it.”

How important is cooking in Colombia today?

“More important than ever. Gastronomy is finally on the radar of local governments, with mayors and governors recognizing its cultural and economic value. In Atlántico, food festivals are growing in different municipalities, attracting more people and becoming essential events on the regional calendar.
Nationally and internationally, Colombian cuisine is gaining more recognition every day, thanks to chefs like Harry Sasson, Leonor Espinosa, Juan Manuel Barrientos, Álvaro Clavijo, and Jaime David Rodríguez, who have elevated our cuisine on the world stage.
Juan Manuel’s Michelin stars for El Cielo Miami and Washington—the first Colombian restaurants to achieve this honor—along with Leo and El Chato ranking among the world’s best, are achievements that fill us with pride. These successes open doors for all of us, allowing Colombian cuisine to shine globally.”