Juan Manuel Barrientos: “I want to continue conquering palates around the world”
The Renowned Colombian Chef Celebrates Twenty Years Since the Opening of El Cielo
By: Pamela Villagra
It is almost impossible to find a gap in the schedule of this chef who, in twenty-two years, has opened twelve restaurants and a hotel. Juan Manuel Barrientos, who this year celebrates twenty years since the opening of El Cielo, is preparing for the inauguration of his new restaurant, Cartagena, in Miami, and hints at the possibility of making the leap to New York.
While he continues to seek balance between his role as a chef and that of an entrepreneur, the chef dreams of further growth in the North American market. In this interview, with his characteristic intensity and unmistakable paisa accent, he reflects on his journey, talks about his relationship with the 50 Best, and shares his thoughts on the current state of Colombian cuisine.
Twenty-two years have passed since you started cooking and twenty since you opened El Cielo. What things remain unchanged in you since then?
“My vision remains intact, as does our commitment to being a family-run business and the purpose of bringing luxurious Colombian experiences in hospitality to the world. I still hold onto the dream of elevating Colombia’s name.”
More and more top chefs are deciding to take a different path and step away from haute cuisine. Have you ever thought about changing direction with El Cielo?
“It has never crossed my mind to leave El Cielo or to stop cooking.”
You have experienced the industry intensely from a young age: the 50 Best came early, followed by awards, magazine covers, and now Michelin. Is there too much pressure on your work?
“Yes, there is. The work becomes more complex every day. Today, we have two Michelin-starred restaurants, twelve restaurants in total, and new projects. But I have always loved working hard and under pressure—I truly enjoy it and never get stressed.”
You are seen more often with celebrities than with other chefs. And with twelve restaurants and a hotel, are you more of an entrepreneur than a chef today?
“No, I will always be a chef first and then an entrepreneur. I believe it’s a balance between both—being an entrepreneur by day and cooking by night.”
In twenty-two years, you have seen and experienced a lot in this industry. What have been the most challenging moments of your career?
“Rather than the worst moments, the most difficult was when we opened in Miami. Internationalizing a brand using the profits we generated in Colombia—buying dollars to invest in the United States—was extremely tough. Conquering that market was a struggle; it took about five very challenging years.”
And what has been the most rewarding thing that cooking has given you?
“My daughter—spending time with her in the kitchen—and working with my family every day.”
Has it bothered you not to return to the 50 Best?
*”No, it hasn’t. I believe that the Michelin guide and its stars have become an even more significant icon. The 50 Best helped me a lot in Bogotá when we were starting out. It was a tough beginning—while we were well known in Medellín, in Bogotá, not so much. The 50 Best put us on the international gastronomy map.
When I left the ranking, I was very young and somewhat immature, and that experience inspired me to focus on being both a chef and an entrepreneur. It helped me grow my business and create more jobs. When I left the ranking, I had 100 employees; now, I have 500. It motivated me to evolve and improve my proposal, to reinvent myself.
Today, I am proud to be the first Colombian chef to win a Michelin star by cooking Colombian cuisine. I am proud to take my country’s cuisine to major, influential cities like Washington D.C. and Miami—especially because my team is almost entirely made up of Colombian talent.”*
How do you see the current state of Colombian cuisine?
“Colombian cuisine is growing every day. There are more and more talented chefs, and I believe we will continue showcasing a beautiful and delicious side of Colombia for years to come.”
Future plans… What new projects are you working on?
*”I never stop working. We are about to open (on October 1st) the restaurant Cartagena, inside the SLS hotel in South Beach. It will feature an à la carte Colombian cuisine concept—casual, tropical, and influenced by all Caribbean countries. We are also evaluating some opportunities in New York.
So, my future plans are to keep growing and continue conquering palates around the world.”*
What do you consider to be Juan Manuel Barrientos’ greatest contribution to cuisine?
“I believe it has been showing chefs that dreams can come true through cooking and that one can create jobs and build a nation by taking Colombian cuisine to the world.”